Sundays in Gozo

Sundays in Gozo are interesting. During the day the place is dead where locals are concerned. Tourists, of course, are ever prevalent. But locals are not really out other than to go to church and during the day all of the shops are closed and about half the cafes are as well. I walked to Kercem yesterday in the afternoon because the map I have indicates there are “catacombs” on the road out of Victoria leading to Kercem. I found no such thing but I’ve found the map I have to be somewhat unreliable when it comes to items like that. Then again, in terms of the way the Gozitans preserve their antiquity, I wouldn’t be surprised if it was right under my nose somewhere and I didn’t know it because they hadn’t posted a sign.

It’s a short walk to Kercem – it took me 45 minutes but I was really dawdling and taking pictures so I’d guess it’s closer to 25 – 30 minutes at a regular pace. The town was as dead as Victoria when I walked through with the exception of a few heads poking out of a local bar as I walked past.

On the way back I was struck at how the traffic (both pedestrian and automobile) had picked up. There were even police manning the intersection from the Citadel to the Triq Republikka. I was kind of afraid that I, once again, missed a funeral. I noticed, however, that none of the cars contained people wearing black, and I didn’t see any mourners walking around like last time. After showering I headed back out and the streets were suddenly alive with people. I couldn’t believe the transformation, especially in comparison to the same time the night before on a Saturday. Where were all of these people on a Saturday night and how come they were suddenly out on Sunday? The streets were filled with parked cars and cars that were just half pulled over. Some spots double parked. The Teatru Astra was full of people (normally it’s just a handful of regulars) and the Teatru Avalon was jam packed with people playing BINGO. All the way down Triq Republikka there were food cart vendors parked all over the place. Families were eating out of their cars or getting pizza to go. I walked up past the bus depot toward St. Francis Square and it was lit up like it was a festa. (Turns out it was the Feast Day of St. Francis...duh) People were packed in by Tapie’s Café and Kilena’s shop/parking area also getting food and taking it to go or eating in their cars. I wondered if it was some leftover vestige of the fact that it’s Sunday and you’re not supposed to work on Sunday (which includes cooking).

Today (Monday) I went to the Post Office to get some stamps and ended up making a contact with a guy who works there. He asked me where I as from so I told him my usual spiel. He offered to meet with me sometime for an interview or to show me some of the cemeteries since each town has their own. He lives in Qala and I haven’t been there yet so that would be pretty helpful. While we were talking I decided to ask him about why it was so packed here last night and he confirmed my suspicions. He said that because people don’t work on Sundays they come out for a treat with their families. I’m going to have to pay attention to this more closely next Sunday.

After the PO I decided to go to a shop around the corner from me owned by Mario, a guy who was a contact of mine last summer. I haven’t bothered him yet since I’ve been here this time and as I came up to the shop he recognized me immediately and smiled right away. We talked for 45 minutes about his year and what he’s been up to. He’s just finished his Masters in Theology and also has a degree in Philosophy. He teaches German at the primary school, spent a year in Austria studying, and owns a shop in the square that he works in when school is out (after 2:30 everyday and all through the summer.) He had some very helpful information about another library over at the Seminary and was able to give me some contact information for a younger priest who is a friend of his. I also got to meet his mother who was helping him close the shop. When I had my interview at BCD the woman there said that the undertaker in Zebug is more popular and does more funerals than anyone else. I asked Mario about it and he agreed and said that he has a storefront/shop in the hospital here in Victoria so you don’t even have to go all the way to Zebug to find him. Like everyone I’ve met here, Mario ended our conversation with telling me that if I need anything I can stop by anytime and reminded me what times he is in his shop. I was reminded again of a conversation I’d had with several of my fellow friends from field school last summer about how intimidating the Gozitans can look outwardly but how helpful they are once you break the ice with them. I hope this continues to be the case because I can use all of the help I can get!

My friend Chris Levesque arrives tomorrow morning for a quick 3 day trip….maybe he’ll be interested in checking out an undertaker shop at the local hospital with me!?